Chapter 10 - The Canals
From Rome to Crescent by Boat
Technically the Mohawk Valley section of the Canal starts where the
Mohawk River enters the Canal at Rome, but the nearest public boat launch
is about a mile west of the river, so that’s where we’ll launch our boat.
(When the canal is open, the river flows east and west from Rome to keep
the canal full, so it has been argued that the traditional Mohawk Valley
has been altered by the construction of the canal.)
Although there are a number of marinas where big---self-contained---boats
can tie up for the night, currently there are not many places to secure
a small powerboat and stay at a canal side motel, so I’ll point out public
launches along the way, allowing small boat owners to plan a series of
piecemeal trips. It takes much too long---a couple of hours---to travel
two miles through the five locks at the eastern end of the canal, so we'll
end our discovery trip at the boat launch near Crescent Dam.
The new bridge is part of the Erie Canalway Trail
Boating on the Canal is free if you don’t go through a lock, but right now (2005) a pass for a one-day, 10 days, or for the entire season is a good deal. For instance for a boat less than 16 feet, a day-pass is $5, a 10-day pass is $12.50 and the Seasonal Permit $25. For a 16 but less than 26 foot boat, it’s $10, $25 and $50 respectively. Boats greater than 39 feet - $20, $50 and $100. Passes and permits can be purchased at New York State Thruway Authority Headquarters, 200 Southern Blvd., Albany New York (518) 436-2799. For more information, including current fees and other purchase locations see: http://www.canals.state.ny.us/exvac/boating/bctolls.html
And Then Go By the Rules
The maximum speed on the Canal is 10 mph; slower in designated areas
and when approaching canoes, kayaks, small boats, docks and marinas. Big
boats should stay between the buoys that mark the deepest part of the canal.
Smaller boats can explore---with care---bays, backsets, stream outlets
and around islands. All boats should stay away from dams. For more information
see: http://www.nycanal.com/nycanalfacts.html#facts
It’s The Great Carry for God’s
Sake
Before launching at Rome, consider reliving the rich history of “The
Great Carry” by visiting Fort Stanwix and associated Marinus Willet Reception
Center . . . AND . . . Erie Canal Village. The Fort is a National Monument
that is an exact replica of the bastion where the British were held at
bay during the Revolutionary War. The Village, which is located where the
construction of the Erie Canal began in 1817, is an outdoor living museum
that features a variety of period homes, workshops and other buildings,
plus a packet boat ride on the Old Erie Canal. Between visits stop at one
of Rome’s many fine restaurants.
For more information see: http://www.stepintohistory.com/states/NY/Ft_Stanwix.htm
http://www.eriecanalvillage.net
The public boat launch in Rome is located where Muck Road meets the Canal at the south ends of S. Madison or S. George streets. Both streets run off Erie Blvd. It’s an excellent launch with plenty of parking.
And Away We Go
If you’re a fisherman, you will want to spend some time in this area.
If not, head east. You will soon discover a number of highway bridges,
Guard Gate 7 and the falls where the Mohawk River enters the Canal. Take
a close look at the moveable dam. In the winter it’s down and all that
water coming over the falls flows east. Note the new wooden arch bridge
above the falls; it’s part of the Erie Canalway Trail that will eventually
cross the entire state.
Just east of the river is the Rome Terminal; it’s
being developed into a canal-side park. If you’ve spent a few hours fishing,
or boated into the area from the West, you can tie up at the park to take
a break or walk into Rome.
On the south side of the Canal is a channel leading
to the Rome Marina, and the approximate location of the Lower Landing of
the Great Carry. It’s also a good place to fish. About three miles east
is a crossover dam and Guard Gate 6. Right now (We are pretending it’s
summer.) some of the canal water flows over the dam and into the Mohawk
River. In the winter this moveable dam is down, so most of the water flows
over the dam into the river. These are all good places to fish.
On the north side of the river, at about four miles,
is the mouth of Six Mile Creek. For many years this was the launching site
for a raft that carried young stock to and from the “island” on the south
side of the Canal.
At around six miles Ninemile Creek flows into the
Canal and over another crossover dam. The wide mouth of the creek is a
good place to fish and to see spawning carp. Tiger muskie fishermen pay
special attention to this area of the Canal. Crane Creek enters the Canal
at nine miles and flows over a crossover dam. From there it’s less than
a mile to Lock 20.
There is a beautiful park at Lock 20, so it’s a
good place to tie up. The park features picnic grounds, restrooms
and a pavilion, plus a special viewing platform to watch boats go through
the lock. During the summer, evening concerts are held here. Lock 20 has
a 16-foot lift, or in our case, traveling east, a 16-foot drop.
A mile or so east of Lock 20 is the entrance
to Marcy Marina. This is the approximate location of New York’s first canal.
At 13 miles is a State Boat Launch on the south side of the Canal, and
at 13.4 miles the Utica Harbor Lock. The waters around the lock and the
turn around bay opposite the lock are fish havens. In the spring and fall
this is also a good place to look skyward, because a nearby wildlife area---
Utica Marsh---attracts thousands of geese, ducks and other waterbirds.
In the Mohawk Valley the Utica Lock is unique. It’s
the only lock on the Canal that is not in the Canal. This
6.5-foot "drop" lock leads to a dammed section of the Mohawk River and
to Utica Harbor. Today this seldom
used and environmentally abused harbor has great potential to become
a major tourist attraction in Utica and on the Canal. Presently the harbor
and surrounding lands are so polluted it will take many years and millions
of dollars to clean them up.
Just east of the Genesee Street Bridge is
the brand new Utica Marina building. Presently the “marina” is not fully
developed, but it does feature one of the finest restaurants on the Canal.
Kitty’s On The Canal features indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the
Canal and the falls at the mouth of Reall Creek.
Except for a few bridges and the crossover dam in
Schuyler, the next stop on the Canal is Lock 19 at 20 miles. This 21-foot
“drop” lock is a long way from the road, but it features a small park and
the mouth of Sterling Creek. From Lock 19 it’s about 3.5 miles to Frankfort
Harbor. There are a number of small tributaries and bays along this stretch
of the Canal that can be very fishy.
Frankfort Harbor (23.4 miles) is a major player
on the Canal. It’s here that the Canal and the Mohawk River come together.
From here on, the Canal and River follow the same path---except for a couple
of minor separations---all the way to the Hudson River. The harbor is also
the location of a public boat launch, a marina, fishing platform, restaurant
and a sport shop.
(For much more information about the Canal and River east of Frankfort see: Chapter 11 – The River.)
The Ilion Village Marina, at 26 miles, features
a picnic area and restaurant, and is within walking distance of the Remington
Firearms Museum.
A couple miles east of Ilion is the Herkimer Marina
which features Gems Along the Mohawk and The Waterfront Grille, providing
a visitor center, a retail outlet for many local products, and fine dining
overlooking the Canal. This is also a “port” for the “Lil' Diamond” that
offers guided cruises on this area of the Canal. For more information see:
http://www.gemsalongmohawk.com/about/
Just past the Mohawk St. Bridge are Guard Gate 5
and the Mohawk Dam. As noted previously, this is where the river and canal
part company for about four miles. The Canal passes under the Guard Gate
and on to the site of Fort Herkimer, and right by the 250 year old Fort
Herkimer Church and Cemetery.
The parting of the river and canal created Lock
18 (Plantation) Island that is a State Wildlife Area and the location of
remnants of two earlier canals. See also Lock
18 Island.
Lock 18, at 32 miles, is a 20-foot "drop" lock located
just outside of the hamlet of Jacksonburg. The river rejoins the canal
just east of the lock. The waters below the lock are very fishy, as are
the mouths of several tributaries that enter the canal along this section.
The
State Public Boat Launch at Little Falls is on the north side of the Canal
at around 35 miles.This launch features a park and plenty of parking. Little
Falls is located in a gorge, so there are escarpments on both sides
of Herkimer County’s only “City.” A sloping hill on the south side of the
gorge is called the Rollaway. In the early days the only way to get logs
to the sawmill located on the south side of the river was to roll them
down this hill. Little Falls is a great place to tie up and explore Moss
Island, browse through gift and antique shops, or to partake at nearby
restaurants. For more information see: http://www.littlefallsny.com/
That’s the Little Falls Terminal on the
right. It’s being developed into a canal-side park and “port.” You might
see the Erie Canal School Boat tied up here. Although the boat’s primary
purpose is to teach students about the history of the Canal, it doubles
as a tour boat for young and older folks. Just east of the “park” is Guard
Gate 4.
Lock 17, at 36 miles is a 40.5-foot “drop.” For
many years it was the highest lock in the world. Today it’s the highest
single lift on the New Erie Canal, and the site of a power plant and the
aforementioned Moss Island where trails lead to giant potholes created
10,000 years ago by a glacial river.
<>Little Falls to Amsterdam
Take
a left turn out of Lock 17 and go upriver to see Cathedral Point and the
Power Plant on Moss Island, and the lower reaches of the Little Falls.
Lots of fish in this area. Look skyward and you will probably see a dozen
or more turkey vultures soaring in the updrafts near the top of the gorge.
Consider this. Some 9,000 years ago the gorge was solid rock from top to
bottom. As this “dam” in Glacial Lake Iroquois deteriorated, it created
a 500-600 foot waterfalls that created the huge potholes on Moss Island.
cliff east of Little Falls was a stone
crushing plant back in the 1920s.
After passing under the highway
bridge, which incidentally would have passed through Moss Island if a whole
bunch of folks didn't scream and holler, look to the left. That’s the Little
Falls Wastewater Treatment Plant, one of the reasons the river/canal is
so much cleaner these days. Further along, that derelict concrete building
on the side of a cliff was a stone crushing and distribution plant in the
1920s. That side of the gorge is called Burned Rocks. relating to fires
that spread along the side of the gorge in the 1800s
Herkimer Home sits way back, on the south side of the Canal, at around
38 miles. There is a huge sign and a small dock near the water. Don’t
tie up at the dock unless you have special permission. General Nicholas
Herkimer lived in the brick “mansion” on the hill in the mid 1700s, and
died here in 1777 after he was wounded during the Battle of Oriskany. Herkimer
made his fortune carting boats and cargo around Little Falls. Today his
home, family cemetery and adjacent buildings is a New York State Historic
Park.
From Herkimer Home it’s only a couple miles to Five
Mile Dam where the river and canal go their separate ways. A mile further
is the mouth of Nowadaga Creek and Guard Gate 3. Chief Joseph Brant and
his sister Molly (Lady Johnson) lived on a farm near here before the Revolutionary
War, and were friends and neighbors of the Herkimers. The 1769 Indian Castle
Church is located across Route 5S from the Brant homestead.
Around 2 miles east on the south side of
the Canal (and opposite the mouth of East Canada Creek on the separated
Mohawk River) is the site of the Mohawk village of Canajoharie, Fort Hendrick
and King Hendrick’s orchard. (See Hendrick.)
Next stop, at 44 miles, is Lock 16. This 20.5-foot
“drop” lock is located about a half mile east of the hamlet of Mindenville.
The waters below the lock and dam are popular fishing spots, as are the
waters where the river and the canal come together again. There is a concrete
“lip” in the river in this area, so it’s not a good idea to motor up the
river, especially during low water periods.
Just past the bridge, at the lighthouse on the north
side of the canal, (44.5 Miles) is the Saint Johnsville Municipal Boat
Launch and Marina. (Launch fees are stuffed in a locked box on the dock.)
This is a good place to tie up and take a break. This “full service”
marina features a campground, and it’s only two blocks to the center of
town. See: http://www.stjohnsville.com/vilmarina.htm
East of Saint Johnsville, look for a small dock on the south side of the
Canal. It's a good place to stop and explore the Old Erie Canal locks that
were uncovered here recently. A mile or so east on the north side of the
Canal look for a small tributary and a stone house on a hill. This is Fort
Klock, a fortified homestead that dates back to the French and Indian War.
This is also an area rich in Indian history. There were a number of Mohawk
villages atop the hills on the south side of the river dating back to the
1600s. The mouths of tributaries plus islands along this stretch of the
canal can be very fishy.
The island between Lock 15 and its moveable dam is a popular fishing spot.
The white building on the right is the Beechnut Foods plant in Canajoharie.
At 54 miles the canal drops another 8 feet at Lock
14 where another moveable dam just west of Canajoharie controls water levels
between villages. The island between the lock and the dam is a popular
fishing spot. The huge white buildings on the right side of the canal belong
to the Beechnut Gum and Baby Food Company that once employed a couple thousand
residents of Canajoharie, Fort Plain and surrounding communities.
Today only about 300 people work there. One lasting legacy of the founders
of the company is the Canajoharie Library and Art Gallery. 
J
ust
east of the lock are a park, State Boat Launch and a tie up at the mouth
of Canajoharie Creek. A couple miles up the creek is the famous “pot
that cleans itself.” Across the river from Canajoharie is the village of
Palatine Bridge. One of the first bridges to cross the river was located
here.
At around 60 miles, the Valley squeezes between The
Noses---Big Nose on the left, Little Nose on the right. In addition to
the canal and river, the NYS Thruway, Route 5, Route 5S and the railroad
pass through this gap in theAppalachian Plateau. Despite all the traffic,
this is one of the most beautiful sections of the Mohawk Valley.
On the north side of the canal is the mouth of Knauderack
Creek. Note the sign and small dock. A little ways up this stream,
on the site of an ancient Mohawk Village, is Kanatsiohareke, a Mohawk Indian
Community that features a Bed and Breakfast and Gift Shop.
There is a major canal maintentance facility on the
north side of the Canal at Fonda.
Lock 13, at 61.8 miles, is easy to get to by boat,
but tough to get to by car. The construction of the Thruway blocked the
road between the lock and the hamlet of Randall, so public access was provided
through a Pedestrian Tunnel. The 8-foot “drop” lock and moveable dam features
a park and the opportunity to watch canal and railroad traffic running
side by side.
At 66.5 miles the Canal passes between Fonda and
Fultonville. The big State facility on the north side of the Canal is a
major Canal Corporation repair facility. On the other side, east of the
highway bridge, is a private facility that was way ahead of its time. Poplars
Inn and Marina included a motel, restaurant, launching ramp and docks.
Today only the motel is in operation. Possibilities?
Once away from the sights and sounds of civilization,
the Canal is a wild and peaceful run for about five miles to Schoharie
Creek This is smallmouth bass country. The State Boat Launch and Park at
the mouth of Schoharie Creek are very popular with bass fishermen and kayakers.
Just up the creek are the remnants of the Old Erie Canal Aqueduct called
Schoharie Crossing. On the opposite side of the creek is the hamlet of
Fort Hunter. Once the Lower Castle of the Mohawk Nation, it now features
a museum and remnants of the canals that ran through here. 
Just around the corner is Lock 12 at 71.5 miles.
The moveable dam at this l1-foot "drop" lock serves a double purpose. It
controls the water for the lock and canal, and serves as a bridge between
Tribes Hill and Fort Hunter. The wall on the south side of the dam is a
popular fishing spot.
A couple miles downstream, on the south side of
the Canal is the Schoharie Crossing State Historic Site where a section
of the Old Erie Canal and a double lock have been restored. There are several
islands and stream outlets along this stretch that can be very fishy. This
is also a good area to look for wildlife.
Directly north of the east end of Pepper
Island, at around 73 miles, is the mouth of Kayaderosseras Creek.
Lots of canoes and bateaux landed near here in the 1750s because it’s less
than a 10 minute walk to Fort Hunter, Sir William Johnson’s home
during the French and Indian War.
Lock 11 and moveable dam, at 76 miles, is a 12-foot
drop into downtown Amsterdam. It features Guy Park Manor State Historic
Site. The limestone mansion was once the home of Sir William Johnson’s
daughter and her husband.
Amsterdam and Chuctanunda are popular names on this
section of the Canal. The City of Amsterdam and North Chuctanunda Creek
are on the north side, and the community of South Amsterdam, and South
Chuctanunda Creek are on the south side. Amsterdam features docking facilities,
restaurants, concerts and skating rinks at Riverlink Park. South Amsterdam
features a boat launch at Port Jackson Park near the mouth of South Chuctanunda
Creek. (The State Boat Launch east of Amsterdam is closed until further
notice.)
Just east of Riverlink Park is a rock ledge. Long
ago there were Indian paintings on this rock face that were called the
"Painted Rocks." There are a number of islands and tributary outlets at
and east of Amsterdam that can be very fishy.
Lock 10 and its moveable dam are the 80-mile mark.
Before taking the 15-foot drop, look over the old power plant on the south
side of the Canal. Those four huge smoke stacks once belched smoke skyward
and the plant used river water for cooling.
Amsterdam to Crescent
Although there is an excellent hand launch at Lock 10, there is no public boat launch ramp on the 6-mile section between Lock 10 and Lock 9, making this a “lake” less traveled. Too bad because it’s one of the more beautiful sections of the Canal, running between ridges where rock “walls” are exposed by nature, stone quarries and road construction. This is especially true on the north side, where the Canal, Route 5 and the railroad run side by side.
Several tributaries, points, bays and an island provide habitat for both
fish and wildlife. The first major trib, the Evas Kill, is just downstream
from Lock 10. Two miles downstream is one of the better fishing spots,
created by the outflow of the Compaanen Kill “crashing” into Swart Island.
It’s also a good spot to drop anchor.
bridges that cross the Canal.
A mile further on the same side of the Canal is the mouth of Chaughtanoonda Creek. On the way to the Canal it runs through the legendary Wolf Hollow where the Mohawks and Mohicans clashed in 1669.
Just downstream, the canal/river narrows slightly as it passes between the communities of Hoffman and Pattersonville. Long before there was a canal this was a ferry crossing. The Sandsea Kill enters the Canal at Pattersonville. If your boat is small enough to poke into the mouth of this stream, you should be able to see the remnants of an Old Erie Canal aqueduct and a railroad bridge. .
Around the next bend in the Canal is one of the few remaining railroad crossings. If you’re lucky a multi-colored string of freight cars will pass overhead. It’s less than a mile and a half to Lock 9, so consider lingering in this area to wait for a train, look over the riverside homes or cast to the bridge abutments.
Lock 9, at 86 miles, is a 15-foot “drop” lock, and its moveable dam also serves as a bridge between Route 5 and Route 5S at Rotterdam Junction. The park at the lock features a picnic area, restrooms, tie-ups and plenty of parking. About half way through this 5-mile section---on the south side of a horseshoe bend---is a public boat launch and park maintained by the Rotterdam Kiwanis. Right across the Canal is a Marina and RV Park.
Lock 8 drops the Canal into one of the most historically fascinating regions of the Mohawk Valley.
Lock 8, at 91miles, is a 14-foot drop into one of
the most historically fascinating regions of the Mohawk Valley. It’s along
this 11-mile section that the first Dutch-sponsored settlers came to the
area, building a trading post---Scotia---on the north side of the river
in 1658, and a walled “city”---Schenectady---on the south side in 1660.
Schenectady was a major port and boat making community
in the 1600s and 1700s; a major railroad terminal and locomotive manufacturing
facility in the 1800s and 1900s, and the home of a major electric and electronics
manufacturer in the 1900s and 2000s.
Islands and stop at the dock at
Glen Sanders Mansion at Scotia.
The Oneida Indians lived here after their villages
were destroyed during the Revolutionary War, and several of the islands
are named after members of the Iroquois Federation. A small boat is a definite
advantage in this area because circling the islands is the best way to
see wildlife and catch bass. It’s also the best way to motor to the dock
at Glen Sanders Mansion on the north side of the river; the site of the
first Dutch trading post in the valley and the location of one of the finest
restaurants in upstate New York.
Just downstream from the Mansion is the Western
Gateway Bridge between Scotia and Schenectady. Past the bridge on the left
are Freedom Park and a fast food drive-in. Below the last of the Iroquois
Islands is the site of a ferry crossing and an ancient covered bridge.
On the Schenectady side of the crossing was the original walled city. Today
this Stockade District features a riverside park, and homes dating back
to the 1700s. Unfortunately, there isn’t a dock in this area.
Within
sight of the Stockade District is a railroad bridge; another good place
to fish for bass. Downstream from the bridge, on the right, are several
large buildings that were once part of a locomotive manufacturing facility.
A mile or so downstream on the opposite side of the river are the Freeman’s
Bridge State Boat Launch, a marina, followed by the abutments of an old
trolley bridge.
From here on it’s smooth sailing all the way up to the Big Bend at the
“Eel Place,” or Alplaus. The Alplaus Kill enters the river at the west
end of the bend, and the remnants of an Old Erie Canal Aqueduct are at
the east end. Before the 1915 Canal was built, this section of the river
flowed through a gorge. The cliffs on each side attest to that. Today the
hamlet of Aqueduct is home to Niskayuna Park and the High School Rowing
Club, so be prepared to see the Niskayuna Crew rowing shells in the middle
of the river. There are two marinas in this area.
Go slow and easy for the remaining four miles of this section because
there is plenty of wildlife to see, fish to catch and scenery to enjoy.
Lock 7, at 102 miles, is a 27-foot drop into the
largest lake in the Mohawk Valley. The permanent dam at this location doubles
as a power generating facility. That’s Goat Island in the middle of the
dam. There is a boat launch above the lock, and a lock-side park featuring
restrooms and shaded picnic area.
The double steel arch bridge on The Northway (I-87) is a man made wonder in the Mohawk Valley.
About a mile downstream on the right is Niska Island where the Mohawks had a village and extensive cornfields. Today the rich soils on this highground peninsula still support extensive vegetable gardens. For the next three miles on the other side of the river is the Vischer Ferry Nature & Historic Preserve. This nature and man-made wonder features remnants of the Old Erie Canal, trails and wildlife out the gazoo.
After
passing the hillside hamlet of Mohawk View, an s-curve leads to a manmade
wonder: the massive twin steel-arch bridges of The Northway (I-87). From
there to Crescent Dam is the 4.5-mile long and up to a half-mile wide stillwater
called Crescent Lake. It features numerous islands, bays and deepwater
points, making it a favorite among local fishermen. There are marinas on
both sides with access from I-87, and from Route 9 near Crescent. About
halfway between, on the south side of the Canal, is the Colonie Town Park
and Boat Launch.
While passing under the Route 9 bridge look for
the remnants of the old bridges and Old Erie Canal Aqueduct that crossed
the river. From the bridge it’s only a mile or so to Crescent Dam. There
are several islands in this area, and the shallows above the dam attract
a variety of waterbirds, so it’s well worth the time to look them over.
Crescent Dam, at around 112 miles, is 39 feet high and a half-mile long.
As noted previously, the boat launch just east of the dam is the end of this trip, but if you have plenty of time and patience, continue on to the five locks that take the Canal down to the Hudson River. You will pass under Guard Gates 2 and 1 before entering Lock 6, at 113 miles. Lock 6 is a 33-foot drop, followed by 33.3-feet at Lock 5; 34.5-feet at Lock 4; 34.5-feet at Lock 3, and 33.6-feet at Lock 2, for a total drop of 165 feet. The Canal meets the Hudson River at Waterford at 115 miles. All of these locks are accessible from the road (s) on the north side of the Canal.
For much more information on the Canal and River
give
a click.