MOHAWK - Discovering the Valley of the Crystals Copyright 2002Chapter 6 - Dutch, British & Palatines
The Palatines
The Roman Connection
Fifty years before the birth of Christ the Roman Empire defeated the Gauls. To govern and control these Celtic peoples, Rome established a stronghold in the strategic river and hill country of the Rhine River Valley in what is now southwest Germany. The official who governed in the Emperor's name was called the "Palatine". This so-governed region was called a "Palatinate" and the people living there were called Palatinates. (Later shortened to Palatines)
Roman and German emperors governed here for hundreds of years, so the populace was a mixture of Celtic, Germanic and Roman peoples --- descendants of warrior races.
After the fall of Rome and subsequent demise of regional emperors, the Rhine Valley and surrounding countryside was ruthlessly governed by a number of warlords who built mountain-top fortresses (castles) to protect their armies and fortunes. While these armed camps fought for control of the area, the farmers, craftsmen and tradesmen living in the countryside created farms, orchards, vineyards and towns in the valley and surrounding hills.
As power was consolidated and fiefdoms grew larger and better governed, Palatinate emerged from the darkness and constant warfare of the Middle Ages. Cities like Mainz, Worms, Oppenheim, Mannheim and Heidelberg became centers of commerce, government, religion and education .....and the valleys and hillsides produced some of the finest crops in Europe.The French Connection
The location of this prosperous region, between a powerful and ruthless King Louis XIV of France, and a weak organization of German principalities, made it ripe for invasion and plunder in the 1600s and again in the early 1700s, and set the stage for an exodus of Palatines to Holland and England, and eventually to America.
By 1708 French armies had burned and pillaged Palatine homes, crops, fruit trees, churches, libraries, villages and cities. Even the renowned University of Heidelberg and the sacred tombs of the German Emperors at the city of Worms were destroyed. Thousands of inhabitants were driven from their homes and left to face the elements without food or shelter. Many died, many became beggars on the streets of Europe.
The winter of 1708-09 was the worst on record, destroying the fruit trees and vineyards that had escaped destruction by the French army. For many Palatines all hope for a future in their homeland was lost. Around that same time representatives from the American colonies, most notably Pennsylvania, had traveled throughout the region promoting immigration to America, stressing the availability of rich farmlands and religious freedom.
Palatines left their homeland in great numbers, many of them traveling for almost a month in open boats down the Rhine River to seek sanctuary in Holland and transport to England. At first Queen Ann's England welcomed the Palatines, at least the Protestant Palatines. Because of English law at that time, Catholic Palatines were returned to Europe unless they changed their religion or enlisted in the British army. England's welcome, even for the predominantly Lutheran and Reformed Protestants, wore thin as the population of Palatines grew into the thousands, straining the government treasury and relations with the local populous.The New York Connection
Although Palatines had immigrated to America soon after the exodus from their homeland, and a few families had settled in the Newburgh area, their major migration to New York was around 1710. England agreed to foot the bill for their passage and other expenses if they agreed (in writing) to develop a much needed naval stores industry in New York, the primary products being pine pitch, tar, rosin and masts for sailing ships. Palatine communities were established for that purpose on both sides of the Hudson River near present day Saugerties and Germantown.
At that time frequent incursions by the French and their Indian allies were threatening the New York frontier and the English control of the fur trade, so both the British Cabinet and New York authorities welcomed the Palatines to bolster the defense of the frontier. The Palatines, eager to fight for their new homeland and against their old nemesis, the French, volunteered to join the British and Iroquois to attack French Canada in 1711. Although this campaign failed, the Palatines demonstrated their desire to fight the French to both the British and Iroquois.
The white pines of New York did not produce pitch and tar as expected, so the Naval stores project failed. To make matters worse, local officials had "redirected" funds Parliament appropriated for the project and to settle the Palatines. The Palatines were left to fend for themselves.
While some Palatines remained in the Hudson Valley, 200 families moved lock, stock and barrel to the upper Schoharie Valley where they purchased land from the Mohawks. A few years after this migration they were told to re-purchase their holdings from the "rightful" British owners or move on. (Many of them re-purchased their holdings and remained in the valley.) Appeals to the Crown were unsuccessful because Queen Ann had died and the new Cabinet had little interest in helping the Palatines.
However, a new governor was very interested in protecting the New York frontier, especially in the Mohawk Valley. In the early 1720s Governor William Burnet allowed the Palatines to purchase land from the Mohawks at Stone Arabia and on the flatlands near the mouth of West Canada Creek. This purchase, titled the Burnetsfield Patent in honor of the governor, consisting of 91,386 acres (including 200 acres of church land)) on both sides of the Mohawk from present day Little Falls to Frankfort, was purchased July 1722. The Title Deed, which included 92 names, was issued in April 1725. Many of the family names on that original deed are still familiar in the Herkimer area today, including Staring, Helmer, Harter, Foltz, Shoemaker, Bellinger, Herkimer, Weber, Casler, Petrie and Fulmore.
In addition to the families that moved from other areas of New York, a boatload of Palatines arrived in New York from Europe in the fall of 1722 and settled at Burnetsfield the following spring.
The Palatines on the north side of the Mohawk, like their European ancestors, built their homes in a village and farmed the fields nearby. Most of their buildings were constructed of hewn timber and roofed with bark or thatch. Palatine Village was on the west bank of the West Canada. In the 1720s the Palatines built a small church where the Reformed Church now stands at the Four Corners in downtown Herkimer. Most of the village was located north of the church, with farmlands running from the edge of the village to the banks of the two rivers. There were also homes and farmsteads on the south side of the Mohawk opposite the mouth of West Canada Creek.
The combination of lime-rich alluvial soils washed from West Canada Valley and the Palatines thousand-year farming heritage created one of the most productive farming communities in America. In addition to a variety of field crops including wheat and peas, the Palatines raised respectable flocks of sheep, plus cattle and horses. In a very short time they produced much more than they could use. Excess produce was sold or traded to the Indians and other Europeans, or shipped to Europe. Two decades after their arrival, the German Flatts Palatines were a wealthy community.
While they traded with British to the East and occasionally assisted in military campaigns, they had little social interaction with their neighbors. Within their communities they spoke their own language, conducting religious services and teaching in German. Their relations with the Mohawks and Oneidas were excellent. Unlike the Dutch and British they seldom married Indians, although they converted a number of them to their Christian faith.Discovery: While researching this chapter, I discovered that the Palatines that settled in Pennsylvania in the early 1700s were called "Pennsylvania Dutch" by the British to distinguish them from the Dutch that settled New York in the 1600s. My grandfather came to Central New York from Pennsylvania in the early 1900s. I had always been told my ancestry was Dutch and that my ancestors had come from Amsterdam, Holland. I learned that many of the Palatines embarked from Amsterdam and there were Keeslers (also spelled Geasler, Gieseler, Keasler and Kesler) among them. Considering the fact that there is a "Keesler Corners" south of the Mohawk River, just over the Herkimer County line, in Montgomery County, some of my relatives may have settled in this area. Perhaps my ancestry is Palatine not Dutch.
(Originally published in Kuyahoora-Discovering West Canada Valley - 1999)
Discovery: Exploring Palatine CountryOctober 19, 2001, 50 degrees, Sunny
This was a spur of the moment discovery trip. Gert and I left the house at 8:30 a.m. and headed east down the Mohawk Valley to visit and photograph some of the Palatine churches and buildings that were constructed in the 1700s.
Our first stop was the 1770 Palatine Church next to Caroga Creek, southeast of St. Johnsville on Route 5. Many years ago there were mills and a small village located here. Today all that remains are a few homes, barns, a crumbling cement arch bridge and the beautiful limestone church. It was difficult to photograph the church because of its closeness to other buildings, power lines and poles.
This is the most "visible" Palatine Church in the Mohawk Valley because of its location along Route 5, just east of St. Johnsville.
At the village of Palatine Bridge, we followed Route 10 north to the hamlet of Stone Arabia, the location of one of the first Palatine settlements in the Mohawk Valley. Here I photographed the Stone Arabia Stone Church that was built in 1788. Nearby was a sign noting the Battle of Stone Arabia.
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We returned to Route 5 and followed it east, past The Noses and on to Fonda where we crossed the Mohawk River to Fultonville. After a late breakfast at the village's Trucking Complex, we followed Route 30Asouth, through the hills separating the Mohawk and Schoharie valleys. The fall colors along this hill-country road were spectacular, as was the view when we dropped down into Schoharie Valley.
Palatines settled at Stone Arabia in the 1720s
Schoharie
We followed 30A to Route 30 and continued up the valley towards the villages of Schoharie and Middleburgh., the section of the valley settled by the Palatines who left the Hudson Valley in the early 1700s.
Just outside the village of Schoharie we stopped to visit the Old Stone Fort Museum. Here we met Gar Weber, an Interpreter for the museum, who provided a brief history of Schoharie Valley and the role the fort played in the Revolutionary War. The artifacts displayed at the Fort and other buildings on the property were fascinating, and included large displays of Indian relics, Revolutionary War weapons, and buildings and barns going back to the original Palatine settlements. After taking dozens of photographs of the Fort and other buildings, I returned to the Fort to buy a couple of books about the history of the area. I was disappointed to discover there was no brochure available about the Fort and Museum, however, a web site provided the following information:![]()
"The Old Stone Fort Museum complex celebrates and preserves the rich, historic legacy of New York's beautiful Schoharie Valley. Buildings include an early 1700's home, 1780's Dutch barn, 1830's law office and 1890's one-room school as well as the 1772 stone church that was fortified, and attacked by British forces in 1780."
After following Route 30 to Middleburgh, where we noticed that some signs included the "h" and some ended in "g", we returned to Schoharie to visit the Palatine House. Here we met Curator, Angela De Groff. I was immediately impressed with Angela's knowledge and special feelings for the history of the area and this historic building. While Gert sat outside in the warm sun chatting with Angela's friend who was wrapping bars of homemade soap, I was given a tour of the "ice-cold" house, including a demonstration of how a loom really works. In addition to Angela's weaving skills, I was impressed with the construction of the home and its three fireplaces. One of them was "jamless" fireplace, which is essentially a fire on a rock slab next to a rock wall . . . with the chimney starting at the ceiling. This fireplace was used for cooking only. The others, including the one in the basement, could be used for cooking and to heat the house.
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From Angela, the House brochure and a web site I learned the following:
The 1743 Palatine House is the oldest existing building in Schoharie County. This medieval, German-style building was built by the Palatine Colonists for their minister, Peter Nicholas Sommers, who came to Schoharie from Hamburg, Germany in 1743. It was one of the few frame buildings spared during the Revolutionary War when the rest of the village was burned to the ground.
The Palatine House features a jamless fireplace.
In 1971, with the aid of the Presbyterian Church and a matching grant from the New York State Historic Trust, SCHA restored the 1743 Palatine House and created a "Living Museum". From May to October, visitors can experience colonial life and times by taking guided tours of the house, grounds and adjacent cemetery, where Peter Nicholas Sommers and his wife are buried. Through continued research, assistance from the New York State Council on the Arts and donations of 18th century articles from local residents, the 1743 Palatine House preserves an important part of our colonial past.
From the Palatine House we made a beeline for the Parrott House where we enjoyed a late lunch. The food and service were every bit as good as it was when I ate there some 20 years ago.
We returned to the Mohawk River via Route 30 to Amsterdam where we got on the Thruway. We were home in time to watch the six o'clock news.
Incidentally, the Old Stone Fort Museum and Palatine House are open to the public from the beginning of May to the end of October. Both charge a fee for visits and tours.For more information about the Old Stone Fort Museum and Schoharie County: http://www.SchoharieHistory.net/
For more information about the Palatine House: http://www.midtel.net/~scha/palatinehouse.htm
Follow the path of this discovery trip by clicking on Mohawk Valley Maps: by Maptech.
Type Saint Johnsville, select New York, press GO! Click on margin arrows to follow our progress down the Mohawk Valley and into the upper Schoharie Valley.