Wells Brook / Big Brook

Sometimes It's Just Luck. 

July 26, 2002, 60 degrees, Rain

It was raining when we waded into the Mohawk River near Frenchville and started up Wells Creek. Summer-low water exposed "fields" of cobblestones. Deer tracks perforated gravel bars. A long sweeping pool against a gravel bank looked like trout water.
    A good day for fishing and seeing wildlife, but not for photography. Not quite.
 
 
 
  


Concrete walls keep the road from falling into Wells Creek.
 


    Wells Creek starts as Big Brook in the hills east of Frenchville and cascades for about a mile and a half through a winding gorge before easing into the Mohawk floodplain. Along the way it picks up the waters of  Beaver Meadow Brook, Gulf Creek, Gifford Creek and some smaller tributaries. The gorge is also the path of the road between Frenchville and the hilltop hamlet of Steuben, so the stream and the road run side by side much of the way.
    We left Denny’s car near the bridge that crosses the creek about a mile and a half up the gorge, and then drove down to Frenchville.  It was 9:20 a.m. when we started fishing the river and the pools near the mouth of the creek. We didn't raise a single fish. A kingfisher swooped low over the water and flew up the creek,
scolding all the way.

Rushing water carved channels and
potholes in the flatrock streambed.

 


    We waded under the Route 46 Bridge at 9:40, noting the new bridge and the abutments from the old bridge. Above the bridge we discovered streamside patches of Queen Ann’s lace, plus willows, poplar and elm. Despite the lack of sun, a variety of colors were visible in the rock and cobble streambed. Glacial deposits from far away places.
    Upstream, Wells Creek flowed through limestone topped with shale. Water had sculpted the streambed, creating waterfalls, troughs and small potholes. Here and there cobbles and boulders rested on flat rock. Concrete walls and quarried limestone kept the road from falling into the creek. Maple, hemlock and birch lined the opposite bank. Patches of tiger lilies grew streamside.

Shaded outcrops of limestone were covered with moss.


 Wells Creek Valley was quite beautiful, but the overcast sky and shade in the steep-sided gorge were not conducive to taking good photographs. Nevertheless, I clicked away with two cameras, hoping to capture one or two good scenes.
    Gold spoons and spinners cast to pools and runs, and below waterfalls were ignored. Except for a pair of black ducks and a few songbirds wildlife was scarce.
     We passed the mouth of Gifford Creek, stepped up a series of waterfalls and discovered a house and red barn. Just upstream was an iron girder bridge. A road sign near the bridge marked the end of Oliver Road. A nearby sign, faded by long exposure to the elements, read "Brookside Supply - Taylor Outdoor Wood Furnaces."
    Just above the bridge, on the right side of the creek was a rock ledge covered with green moss. Nature's outdoor carpet. The ledge was well shaded, but I photographed it anyway.
 

Red bee balm  blossoms contrasted sharply
with predominantly-green vegetation.

 
 
 

    It was 10:50 when we waded up a series of waterfalls into the mouth of Gulf Creek and headed upstream. At the first bend we discovered rock and cobble bottom, a glacial boulder and a large patch of bee balm. Their bright red blossoms contrasted sharply with the predominantly-green vegetation. There was very little water in this small tributary, so we returned to the main stream. 
    Back at the mainstream---called Big Brook in this area---we discovered a series of channels, potholes and some relatively deep pools. A couple of small fish followed our lures but wouldn't hit. I cast a Phoebe into a run just below a deep pool. Halfway through the run, a fish took the gold lure. As I released an 11-inch brown trout, Denny remarked, "At least we didn't get skunked."
 
 

Big Brook is quite beautiful
even under grey skies.

 
 

    This section veers away from the road and features the longest, deepest pool in the entire stream. A rope dangled over the middle of the pool from a downed hemlock. Nearby a huge slab of limestone sat on edge near the water. The upstream face was covered with white and fluorescent orange paint. This was obviously a popular swimming hole and party place. I learned later it is also the best trout hole on this stream.
 
 
 
 
 

This deep pool, complete with dangling rope and painted rock,
is the best fishing hole and most popular party spot on the stream.


While Denny fished the swimming hole, I continued upstream to the bridge where his car was parked. Above the bridge I photographed a patch of tiger lilies with a glacial boulder in the background. It was my last photograph of the day.
 
 
 

Limestone ledges, tiger lilies and a glacial
boulder marked the end of this discovery trip.

 
 
 

    We met at the bridge at 11:45. In  2 1/2 hours we had hiked through one of the most beautiful gorges in the Mohawk Valley, almost got skunked fishing, saw very little wildlife and, as you can see, took some exceptional photographs because of the low light conditions. Which illustrates that sometimes  you don't have to know what you're doing if you're lucky.


Follow the path of this discovery trip by clicking on  Mohawk Valley Maps: by Maptech.
Type Frenchville, select New York, press GO!
Click on margin arrows to follow the path of the Mohawk River north to Wells Creek.



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